he Wadi Arabah was no barrier to Lawrence of Arabia. From
the village of Buseira, he and four companions rode camels down the
zigzags of a steep pass through bare rock of many colors, down into
the heat at the bottom of the abyss. Above, he wrote, "the cliffs
and hills so drew together that hardly did the stars shine into its
pitchy blackness."
Soon the travelers emerged from the narrow valley in the east and
crossed miles of the open Wadi Arabah, a desolate and
below-sea-level rent in the earth's surface running from the Dead
Sea south to the Gulf of Aqaba. It is a section of the Great Rift
Valley, which extends from southern Turkey through much of
Africa.
The 110-mile-long wadi today is the tightly controlled boundary
between the Negev of Israel and southern Jordan. The sparsely
populated and largely undeveloped region is an object of increasing
fascination among scholars who pursue what could be called the
archaeology of borderlands.
To the concern of archaeologists, Israel and Jordan are casting
covetous eyes on the region for a pipeline or canal to replenish the
declining Dead Sea with water from the Red Sea. Unesco is
considering designation of the entire Rift Valley as a World
Heritage site, an action that could encourage more research in
places like the Wadi Arabah.
In "Seven Pillars of Wisdom," T. E. Lawrence described in his
evocative style the depths of Arabah as "a strange place, sterile
with salt, like a rough sea suddenly stilled, with all its tossing
waves transformed into hard, fibrous earth, very grey under
to-night's half-moon."
After an arduous journey 5,000 feet down, 3,000 feet up, the
travelers finally climbed out of the valley at daybreak and
proceeded across a plain in Palestine to Beersheba. They covered 80
miles to join British forces. It was February 1918, in the waning
months of World War I and the Allied campaign against Turkey,
another time of turmoil in the Mideast.
Lawrence's adventure, crossing one of nature's more formidable
obstacles to human interaction, was no mean feat, but not unheard
of. History and archaeology show that for centuries, from the Stone
Age through biblical times and successive empires, crossings were
possible and, sometimes, regular occurrences. People traversed
Arabah for trade and plunder, refuge and revenge, love and
reunion.
"What we've all regarded as a border between warring nations for
hundreds, if not thousands, of years was no border or barrier at all
in terms of trade, resources and water," Dr. Piotr Bienkowski, an
archaeologist at the University of Manchester in England, said.
"Only in the last couple of generations has it become a modern fixed
boundary. Only in that time have archaeologists been conditioned to
think of it as a barrier."
Archaeologists may study the past, but they live in the present.
For the last half-century, the boundary along Arabah has been fenced
and guarded, sometimes with land mines, especially from 1948 to
1994, when Israel and Jordan were at war.
But a closer examination of historical texts and new excavations
have changed minds. At a symposium last month in Atlanta, scholars
acknowledged that the rugged valley, though clearly an impediment,
was much less of a social and economic divide than they had
thought.
The symposium, "Crossing the Rift: Resources, Routes, Settlement
Patterns and Interactions in the Wadi Arabah," was seen as a modest
and cautious step in an effort to expand archaeological
investigation of the Arabah region and encourage more cooperation
and coordination between researchers working on each side of the
Israeli-Jordanian border. No one pretended that the prospects for
immediate success were bright, given the volatility of Middle East
politics.
The meeting was organized by Dr. Bienkowski, who excavates in
Jordan, and Dr. Katharina Galor of Brown, who specializes in the
archaeology of Israel. It was held with the annual conference of the
American Schools of Oriental Research, an organization of scholars
of Mideastern antiquity.